We’re not quite certain what the legacy of England’s World Cup performance will be yet but one thing that will have a legacy all of its own is Gareth Southgate’s waistcoat.
The clothing item, which the squad’s manager has worn for every one of England’s games in Russia, has become so iconic that the Museum of London is hoping to acquire it for its permanent collection.
The museum said it wanted Southgate’s waistcoat to help illustrate the evolution of the three-piece suit in English fashion over the years.
‘Key part of every man’s wardrobe’
“Waistcoats were born in London in 1666, promoted by King Charles II. The new fashion soon spread and for at least 300 years a three-piece suit formed a key part of every man’s wardrobe,” said Beatrice Behlen, senior fashion curator at the Museum of London.
However they fell out of fashion in the 1960s because they were seen as “old-fashioned and overly formal,” said Ms Behlen.
“Now Watford-born Gareth Southgate is reviving that London tradition and bringing waistcoats home to the forefront of fashion.
“It’s fantastic to see the waistcoat making a comeback in such a universal way, especially on the global stage,” she added.
Timeline of waistcoats
1666 – King Charles II is spotted by Samuel Pepys wearing a ‘vest’
1750s – Waistcoats start to be worn without sleeves
1790s – the length of waistcoats reduces, from roughly hip height to the length we know today
1800s – rise of what we would now recognise as a three-piece suit
1850s – the rise in Dandy-ism leads to waistcoats being worn in a tighter style with less ornate detailing
1940s – three-piece suit sales slump during the war
1960s – the three-piece suit starts to fall out of fashion
Source: Museum of London
Of the museum’s waistcoat collection, Ms Behlen said: “Our earliest waistcoat dates from the late 17th century, our most recent from 2014. This acquisition would be a fantastic addition to our holdings and would come at an exciting time for us while we build the London Collection as we plan the New Museum in West Smithfield.”
‘Lucky’ waistcoat
As England have progressed through the tournament, Southgate’s waistcoat – which some have dubbed “lucky” – has continued to inspire more and more fans to don a similar look.
Yes, the vicar is wearing a waistcoat in honour of saint Southgate@stc_sheffield pic.twitter.com/kQcRxyfLPx
— Will Harvey Sapwell #FBPE (@WillSapwell) July 8, 2018
Section 19: 6.6 – "A local authority may raise a flag and be flown at full mast in the event of a momentous civic or national occasion.”
This one’s for you, Gareth Southgate.
(Sound on
)#ComeOnEngland #ENGSWE #ThreeLions #Waistcoat pic.twitter.com/seaptseXMk
— Doncaster Council (@MyDoncaster) July 6, 2018
Google searches in England for "waistcoat"… #ENGSWE #ItsComingHome #Marr pic.twitter.com/dYx54TK9Fd
— Stephen Jones (@SteveJonesPA) July 8, 2018
If Southgate wins us the World Cup I think @GaryLineker should do Match of The Day in just a waistcoat. #ENG #WorldCup
— Jack Whitehall (@jackwhitehall) July 3, 2018
On Sunday, the day after England’s victory against Sweden, Andrew Marr and the hosts of Sunday Brunch all wore waistcoats in celebration.
Coming up… @AndrewMarr9 with his own tribute to England manager Gareth Southgate's dress style after Saturday's win #ThreeLions #WorldCup18 pic.twitter.com/qjQCWZHSYj
— The Andrew Marr Show (@MarrShow) July 8, 2018
The England manager has said he is surprised to have had such a big influence on fashion. “I was not a renowned fashion icon throughout my playing career. I wasn’t expecting it.”
Southgate asked if he’s aware he’s started the #WaistcoatWednesday craze back home. “I was not a renowned fashion icon throughout my playing career,” he says. “I wasn’t expecting it.” #ENG #WorldCup
— Sam Cunningham (@samcunningham) July 10, 2018
Southgate’s actual waistcoat is from M&S, the official supplier of the whole squad’s formal attire. It costs £65 or customers can pay £264 for the three-piece suit.
The store said waistcoat sales had doubled since the World Cup began and that searches on its website were up by more than 100 per cent.
“Gareth’s sideline style has meant our waistcoats are really scoring with our customers with sales doubling since the World Cup began,” said a spokesperson for M&S.
The BBC’s Dan Walker made a dig at the company’s financial woes, suggesting the popularity of the waistcoat could save it.
If this carries on Gareth Southgate could save Marks & Spencer #Waistcoat
pic.twitter.com/fc9ReQsEGr
— Dan Walker (@mrdanwalker) July 7, 2018
There have been rumours that the Moscow branch of M&S had sold out of waistcoats but the retailer refuted such claims.
“Our Moscow store is not sold out of waistcoats,” M&S said in a statement. “The FA waistcoat and our linen blend waistcoat in navy in kidswear are particularly popular.”
Fans are next expecting to see Southgate and his waistcoat when England take on Croatia in the semi-finals on Wednesday.
Read more World Cup 2018 stories:
England v Croatia: How will Three Lions line-up? An in-depth analysis
World Cup Three Lions lyrics: what the words mean in England’s favourite football song
What Premier League managers can learn from Gareth Southgate
England fans want to erect a Gareth Southgate statue in his hometown, and the council is listening
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